KSRESIN

At this time, KSRESIN is a US only company. We do not ship outside of the US.

You must keep the room temperature at 75-80°  Fahrenheit throughout the entire curing process. If the temperature is not at a consistent 75-80°  Fahrenheit throughout the entire curing process you WILL have issues with your final product such as being slightly tacky, or softer than it should be (less scratch resistant).

To get more color on the sides of your project you need to use more color on the top. As the product begins to thicken it will quit dripping off the sides and you will see color staying in place. You can also tape the edges of your project, do your designs on the top, and wait 1 hour from the time you poured to remove the tape. This will allow the product to start to thicken and less color will pull off. If you are pouring clear epoxy and adding spray paint or epoxy with coloring that is separately mixed we recommend fogging/lightly spraying the edges of your project.

We recommend using Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) which is available at nearly every local lumber or home improvement store. All of our tops are built with ¾” MDF, and then we add ¾” edge strip for a total of 1.5” of front edging.

In ideal temperatures of 75-80°  Fahrenheit the epoxy will be hard to touch in 12 hours, ready for light use in 3 days, and fully cured in 7 days. If you aren’t able to achieve 75-80°  Fahrenheit in your working space, you need to add extra heat. Please see our FAQ titled “How can I keep my room at the suggested working/curing temperature?”

Our epoxy is rated at 475°  Fahrenheit resistance.

Humidity needs to be under 50%. If you are close to 50%, you can add a dehumidifier to help lower the humidity level in your pouring/curing area.

Our epoxy is Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) free, but does have a very minor odor that will dissipate during the curing process.

After measuring the surface area of your project, mix 3 ounces of epoxy per square foot at a 1:1 ratio. For example, if you have a 10 square foot project you will need to mix 30 ounces of epoxy. 15 ounces of Resin and 15 ounces of Hardener.  Always pour the hardener in first as the resin can get stuck to the sides of the mixing container.

It is measured in a 1:1 ratio meaning 1 ounce of Resin requires 1 ounce of Hardener. It is very important to be as precise as possible! Pour your Hardener first, then pour the Resin.

You can pour a second coat as quickly as 4 hours if the first coat is still tacky. If it is not tacky, we recommend waiting 24 hours and lightly sanding the first coat by hand with 220 grit sandpaper. Do NOT use an orbital or palm sander as you can easily over sand the edges and sides revealing the substrate underneath.

This product should be used in 75-80°  Fahrenheit. That includes the products temperature, the surface temperature of your substrate, as well as the ambient air. You can measure the product and surface temperature with an infrared thermometer. Do NOT use Kreative Surfaces Epoxy under 75°  Fahrenheit or you WILL have issues with curing.

You must keep the room temperature at 75-80°  Fahrenheit throughout the entire curing process. If the temperature is not at a consistent 75-80°  Fahrenheit throughout the entire curing process you WILL have issues with curing such as being slightly tacky, or softer than it should be (less scratch resistant).

It is important that the epoxy is mixed completely. Incomplete mixing can create soft spots in the cured product. It is recommended to mix the epoxy in a clean container for 2 minutes with a paddle mixer attachment for your power drill. After 2 minutes scrape the sides and bottom of the graduated bucket, then continue to mix for an additional 2 minutes. Again, it is very important to make sure your epoxy has been mixed very well for best performance.

NO! Adding additional hardener will do the exact opposite, leaving you with a soft/tacky product. It is important to mix this product at an exact 1:1 ratio by volume.

Mica powder is our suggested pigment, however you can also add water based paints, oil based paints, acrylic paints, and epoxy pastes. Remember LESS IS MORE! Tinting your epoxy does not take much pigment, and when you add to much it can affect the curing process. Add a little bit at a time, mix, and if you haven’t reached your desired effect you can add a little more.

In ideal temperatures of 75-80°  Fahrenheit the epoxy will be hard to touch in 12 hours, ready for light use in 3 days, and fully cured in 7 days. If you aren’t able to achieve 75-80°  Fahrenheit in your working space, you need to add extra heat. Please see our FAQ titled “How can I keep my room at the suggested working/curing temperature?”

Our epoxy is rated at 475°  Fahrenheit resistance after 7 days of curing.

15-20 minutes after pouring, you can lightly torch the top of the epoxy in a sweeping motion about 5-6 inches away from the top. Wait another 10 minutes, and repeat this process once more.

While in liquid form you can use acetone to clean up the epoxy. Once it has cured you will need to sand it or use paint stripper.

It is best to remove the drips 2-3 hours after pouring the epoxy. It will begin to gel and the drips can easily be removed by slowly sliding a paint stick at a 45°  angle. Wipe the epoxy on to plastic and you will be able to peel it off and throw it away once it has cured.

Yes it is scratch resistant, however it is not scratch proof just like any other type of countertop. We always recommend using a cutting board rather than cutting directly on the countertop.

Our epoxy (and almost all epoxy) is not meant for outdoor use. Can it be used outdoors? Yes, however it will be more prone to yellowing from over exposure to ultraviolet rays. If you plan to use this epoxy outdoors, we recommend using only darker pigments and not white.

No. It is very important that this epoxy is kept at, poured at, and cured at 75-80°  Fahrenheit.

You can place the bottles in front of a space heater for 15-20 minutes to allow them to get up to temperature or place them in a bucket of hot water. Be sure to check them with an infrared thermometer periodically.

We recommend using a radiant heating system. This will ensure the temperature is capable of staying at the required temperature for working/curing, as well as minimizing air movement and unnecessary particle movement. An alternative to this for smaller projects is creating a tent around your working area and using ceramic space heaters to keep the temperature of the room/tent consistent. We always recommend keeping a digital thermometer in your room that can track 24 hours of temperatures ensuring you do not have issues between day and night hours. The more accurate your room's temperature is, the better your final product will be.

No. The curing process is a chemical process that will happen on its own at the required curing temperature. Using a fan will only cause particles to get into your project by causing air movement.

An easy fix for this is creating a cover out of PVC and draping plastic over your project. If you have questions about this, contact us and we can provide examples. Be sure to have a separate room for sanding and cutting your MDF, and have a clean room for pouring.

This is completely based on preference of the user. A square notch trowel is going to be the easiest to use and achieve complete coverage while spreading a fairly equal amount of product over the surface. Foam rollers and foam brushes are softer and will not leave any marks on your painted substrate, so they can be better to use when pouring a clear flood coat.

Heat guns will move the product and can ruin your designs. Propane torches will provide enough heat to pop the bubbles farther away without moving anything around too much. It is worth having both!

No. Even after cleaning your brush with acetone, it can leave behind excess product and negatively affect your new mixture. Brushes are cheap and should be built in to the cost of your business! If you are trying to save money you can look into silicone brushes, however we have not tried them and do not know how well they will work.

We do not recommend this. It is an inexpensive product that should be built in to the cost of your business.

Plastic sheeting is your friend! It is inexpensive and epoxy will peel right off of the plastic sheeting once it has hardened.

We recommend using Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) which is available at nearly every local lumber or home improvement store. MDF is less porous than some of the other options and it will be much easier to work with. All of our tops are built with ¾” MDF and then add ¾” edge strip for a total of 1.5” of front edging.

We recommend using a Behr Ultra Premium Plus in a Satin sheen. There are limitless amounts of color options, but most of our countertops are in a variant of White, Gray, Brown, and Black. It is important to get a low VOC paint that will release all VOC within 24 hours. This will ensure the epoxy does not have additional chemicals released into it during the curing process.

After your countertops have been built, sand the edges and top of the MDF with 220 grit sandpaper and wipe and/or spray off the dust with compressed air. Make sure the MDF is clean and sanded for the best possible bond.

This is dependent on if you will be pouring clear epoxy or epoxy that has pigment added. If you are pouring clear, it is best to apply two coats of primer to fully cover the MDF. If you are pouring epoxy with pigment added, one coat of Behr Ultra Premium Plus should be sufficient. Note - It is helpful to use the same color of primer as the pigment you will be adding to the epoxy (black primer, black pigment pour).

You need to wait at MINIMUM 24 hours for the primer to dry. The recommended Primer, Behr Ultra Premium Plus, releases all VOC within 24 hours of being applied.

Once you have allowed the primer to dry for at LEAST 24 hours, you can lightly hand sand the primer with 220 grit sandpaper. This will provide the best chemical bond as the epoxy cures.

When you are pouring your countertop, place the backsplash up against the rest of the countertop. Once you have finished adding your design/coloring you can pull the backsplash piece an inch or two away from the countertop.

A satin sheen can be achieved by sanding the epoxy starting at 220 grit - 1000 grit, then using a wax or polishing compound. It is recommended to sand by hand, especially on the edges and corners of your countertops to ensure you do not sand through the epoxy.

We recommend cleaning your epoxy countertops with soap and water. Since they are anti-microbial and non-porous most things will clean off very easily. For anything else you can use your typical household cleaner.

You need to wait a minimum of 7 days for the epoxy to fully cure before placing any hot objects directly onto the epoxy. We always suggest using hot pads and treating these countertops like any other countertops! The better you treat them, the longer they last.

Yes! You should always use a dust mask or respirator when sanding anything!