KSRESIN

At this time, KSRESIN is a US only company. We do not ship outside of the US.

Both Liquid Stone and Liquid Art will work great for coating tumblers. The choice comes down to personal preference.

Liquid Stone - Shorter working time (15-30 minutes), thicker viscosity, cures slightly harder, 75-80F ideal curing temperature

Liquid Art - Longer working time (45+ minutes), medium viscosity, 65-80F ideal curing temperature

Preparation with Stainless Steel is very important. We always recommend sanding the stainless steel surface with 220grit sandpaper to help the epoxy resin adhere to the surface. Be sure to clean the sanded surface with isopropyl alcohol to remove any debris before applying the epoxy resin.

All of our products are temperature resistant up to 475F when fully cured. Be sure to follow our instructions closely to ensure the best possible results.

Liquid Art and Liquid Cast will have the best results at 65-80F curing temperatures.

Liquid Stone will have the best results when curing at 75-80F curing temperatures.

It is important to have consistent temperature throughout the entire curing process. Warmer temperatures will ensure greatest durability of cured product.

Liquid Art and Liquid Stone will be dry to touch within 12 hours of pouring the mixture onto your desired surface. Allow 3* days for a full cure.

Liquid Cast curing times are dependent on total volume and depth of pour, but in most cases the same times can be applied.

* Curing times may be longer if temperatures are inconsistent or below 65F.

Humidity needs to be under 50%. If you are close to 50%, you can add a dehumidifier to help lower the humidity level in your pouring/curing area. You may have success with higher humidity levels, but are much more prone to issues.

Our epoxy is Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) free, but does have a very minor odor that will dissipate during the curing process.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is important when working with chemicals, we recommend the following.

• Nitrile gloves
• Eye protection
• Old clothing, lab coat, apron
• Respirator*

* Respirator should be worn in work areas with insufficient ventilation. It is never a bad thing to wear a respirator as there is a minor odor and some may be sensitive to this.

Epoxy resins are known to yellow when exposed to ultraviolet rays for a prolonged period of time.

Liquid Art Ultra UV contains advanced hindered amine light stabilizers to ensure that your coating resists ultraviolet degradation. Liquid Art Ultra UV outperforms nearly all competitors products that we have tested when exposed to ultraviolet rays for a prolonged period of time.

Liquid Art does contain UV inhibitors, but Ultra UV outperforms it significantly. If you are concerned that the project you coat with epoxy resin will come in contact with UV rays, we highly recommend using Ultra UV.

Liquid Art is a medium viscosity epoxy resin around 5-6,000 CPS.

Liquid Art is measured at a 1:1 ratio by volume, meaning 1 ounce of Resin requires 1 ounce of Hardener. It is very important to be as precise as possible! Mixing small amounts under 1 ounce may have mixed results due to the simplicity of an incorrect mixture.

You can pour a second coat as quickly as 4 hours if the first coat is still tacky. If it is not tacky, we recommend waiting 24 hours and lightly sanding the first coat by hand with 220 grit sandpaper. Do NOT use an orbital or palm sander as you can easily over sand the edges and sides revealing the substrate underneath.

This product should be used in 65-80°  Fahrenheit. That includes the products temperature, the surface temperature of your substrate, as well as the ambient air. You can measure the product and surface temperature with an infrared thermometer.

Yes it is scratch resistant, however it is not scratch proof.

Both Liquidy Split™ and Liquidy Split Ultra UV™ can be used as a top coat. If you are concerned about ultraviolet degradation of the coating, be sure to use Liquidy Split Ultra UV™ as it will outperform the regular formula significantly. 

Liquidy Split™ is a coating resin and should not be poured over 1/8" depth. It heats up and cures significantly faster than our other products and will not allow enough time for trapped air to release. 

Liquidy Split™ hardener, like all of our hardeners, will have a minor odor. The resin should be nearly odorless. In comparison to other available fast setting epoxy resins, the smell should be extremely minimal. Keep in mind that smell is subjective and may not be the same to everyone. 

Liquidy Split™ can be recoated as soon as 2 hours after the previous coat. The previous coat should be tacky to ensure the two mechanically bond. 

Liquidy Split™ has a working time of 15 minutes at 75°F. You may experience more or less time depending on the temperature of the product and environment. 

Liquidy Split™ will be dry to touch in 3-4 hours on average, and fully cured within 24 hours at 75°F.

All of our products are temperature resistant up to 475F when fully cured at the instructed temperature, humidity, and time. This includes Liquidy Split too!

Tackiness can be caused by one of the following:

• Not mixing enough at one time. We recommend mixing a minimum of 2oz (30ml Resin : 30ml Hardener) at one time.
• Incorrect mixing ratio. Too much hardener can cause a tacky surface, when mixing small amounts this is a common occurrence. Be sure to measure as accurately as possible at a 1:1 ratio by volume.
  
• Product temperature, surface temperature, and work space temperature is too low during the curing process. Liquidy Split should be used in an environment of 80F+ throughout the entire curing process (24hrs) to ensure it cures hard and thoroughly.
  

Liquid Cast is measured at a 1:1 ratio by volume, meaning 1 ounce of Resin requires 1 ounce of Hardener. It is very important to be as precise as possible! Mixing small amounts under 1 ounce may have mixed results due to the simplicity of an incorrect mixture.

This product should be used in 65-80°  Fahrenheit. That includes the products temperature, the surface temperature of your substrate, as well as the ambient air. You can measure the product and surface temperature with an infrared thermometer.

Yes! You should always use a dust mask or respirator when sanding anything!

You need to wait a minimum of 3 days for the epoxy to fully cure before placing any hot objects directly onto the epoxy. We always suggest using hot pads and treating these countertops like any other countertops! The better you treat them, the longer they last.

We recommend cleaning your epoxy countertops with soap and water. Since they are anti-microbial and non-porous most things will clean off very easily. For anything else you can use your typical household cleaner.

A satin sheen can be achieved by sanding the epoxy starting at 220 grit - 1000 grit, then using a wax or polishing compound. It is recommended to sand by hand, especially on the edges and corners of your countertops to ensure you do not sand through the epoxy.

When you are pouring your countertop, place the backsplash up against the rest of the countertop. Once you have finished adding your design/coloring you can pull the backsplash piece an inch or two away from the countertop.

Once you have allowed the primer to dry for at LEAST 24 hours, you can lightly hand sand the primer with 220 grit sandpaper. This will provide the best chemical bond as the epoxy cures.

You need to wait at MINIMUM 24 hours for the primer to dry. The recommended Primer, Behr Ultra Premium Plus, releases all VOC within 24 hours of being applied.

This is dependent on if you will be pouring clear epoxy or epoxy that has pigment added. If you are pouring clear, it is best to apply two coats of primer to fully cover the MDF. If you are pouring epoxy with pigment added, one coat of Behr Ultra Premium Plus should be sufficient. Note - It is helpful to use the same color of primer as the pigment you will be adding to the epoxy (black primer, black pigment pour).

After your countertops have been built, sand the edges and top of the MDF with 220 grit sandpaper and wipe and/or spray off the dust with compressed air. Make sure the MDF is clean and sanded for the best possible bond.

We recommend using a Behr Ultra Premium Plus in a Satin sheen. There are limitless amounts of color options, but most of our countertops are in a variant of White, Gray, Brown, and Black. It is important to get a low VOC paint that will release all VOC within 24 hours. This will ensure the epoxy does not have additional chemicals released into it during the curing process.

We recommend using Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) which is available at nearly every local lumber or home improvement store. MDF is less porous than some of the other options and it will be much easier to work with. All of our tops are built with ¾” MDF and then add ¾” edge strip for a total of 1.5” of front edging.

Plastic sheeting is your friend! It is inexpensive and epoxy will peel right off of the plastic sheeting once it has hardened.

It is important that the epoxy is mixed completely. Incomplete mixing can create soft spots in the cured product. It is recommended to mix the epoxy in a clean container for 2 minutes with a mixing stick. After 2 minutes scrape the sides and bottom of the graduated bucket, then continue to mix for an additional 2 minutes. Again, it is very important to make sure your epoxy has been mixed very well for best performance.

NO! Adding additional hardener will do the exact opposite, leaving you with a soft/tacky product. It is important to mix this product at an exact 1:1 ratio by volume.

Mica powder and Pigment Pastes are our suggested pigment, however you can also add universal colorants, oil based paints, acrylic paints, and epoxy pastes. Remember LESS IS MORE! Tinting your epoxy does not take much pigment, and when you add too much it can affect the curing process. Add a little bit at a time, mix, and if you haven’t reached your desired effect you can add a little more.

15-20 minutes after pouring, you can lightly torch the top of the epoxy in a sweeping motion about 5-6 inches away from the top. Wait another 10 minutes, and repeat this process once more.

While in liquid form you can use acetone to clean up the epoxy. Once it has cured you will need to sand it or use a paint stripper.

It is best to remove the drips 2-3 hours after pouring the epoxy. It will begin to gel and the drips can easily be removed by slowly sliding a paint stick at a 45°  angle. Wipe the epoxy on to plastic and you will be able to peel it off and throw it away once it has cured.

Our epoxy (and almost all epoxy) is not meant for outdoor use. Can it be used outdoors? Yes, however it will be more prone to yellowing from overexposure to ultraviolet rays. If you plan to use this epoxy outdoors, we recommend using only darker pigments and not white.

You can place the bottles in front of a space heater for 15-20 minutes to allow them to get up to temperature or place them in a bucket of hot water (with lids tightly closed). Be sure to check them with an infrared thermometer periodically.

We recommend using a radiant heating system. This will ensure the temperature is capable of staying at the required temperature for working/curing, as well as minimizing air movement and unnecessary particle movement. An alternative to this for smaller projects is creating a tent around your working area and using ceramic space heaters to keep the temperature of the room/tent consistent. We always recommend keeping a digital thermometer in your room that can track 24 hours of temperatures ensuring you do not have issues between day and night hours. The more accurate your room's temperature is, the better your final product will be.

An easy fix for this is creating a cover out of PVC and draping plastic over your project, or simply using a cardboard box.

This is completely based on preference of the user. A square notch trowel is going to be the easiest to use and achieve complete coverage while spreading a fairly equal amount of product over the surface. Foam rollers and foam brushes are softer and will not leave any marks on your painted substrate, so they can be better to use when pouring a clear flood coat.

Heat guns will move the product and can ruin your designs. Propane torches will provide enough heat to pop the bubbles farther away without moving anything around too much. It is worth having both!